The Evolution of Dress Code in Classical Music: Tradition vs. Self-Expression

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The world of classical music has traditionally upheld a strict dress code, predominantly characterised by black and white uniforms that have been the norm for centuries. As society progresses, the understanding of identity and artistic expression also shifts, creating opportunities for female, non-binary, and transgender musicians to challenge traditional norms and expectations in the music industry.

Historically, classical music attire has steeped in tradition, with orchestras and performers dressed in formal attire—typically black suits for men and black dresses for women. This uniformity was designed to draw attention to music rather than the musicians themselves, creating a sense of anonymity among performers. However, as the conversation around gender identity and self-expression becomes more prominent, many are questioning the relevance of these archaic dress codes in a modern context.

The emergence of women as well as non-binary and transgender musicians in classical music is a critical aspect of this transformation. As these artists gain visibility and recognition, they bring with them a plethora of styles that reflect their unique identity. This shift is not merely about fashion; it is about reclaiming space and challenging the norms that have historically marginalised diverse voices in the classical music sphere.

Yuja Wang with the Mahler Chamber Orchestra | Credit: Geoffroy Schied

One prominent figure in this movement is Chinese pianist Yuja Wang, known for her stunning performance and eye-catching outfits. Wang often opts for vibrant, form-fitting dresses and high heels, making a bold statement that defies the traditional expectations of classical musicians. Her choice to wear outfits that accentuate her individuality serves as a powerful reminder that attire can be an extension of one’s identity and artistry. Wang stated, ‘I want my dresses to look bright and harmonious because it’s part of my presentation.’ This sentiment resonates deeply within the community of women, non-binary and transgender musicians who seek to express their identities through their performance attire.

Photo taken from Blowstate.fm official webiste

Another noteworthy mention is the Georgian pianist Khatia Buniatishvili, who is celebrated for her luxurious ensembles, which often incorporate vibrant colours and dramatic cuts. Buniatishvili’s approach to fashion allows her to stand out on stage, while also challenging the notion that classical music must adhere to a uniform aesthetic. By embracing her femininity and creativity, she embodies the spirit of modern classical music, which is inclusive and reflective of diverse identities.

Conversations around gender and fashion in classical music are not limited to individual performers. Designers such as Anna Wili pioneered new standards for women musicians by creating a versatile wardrobe that accommodates various body types and styles. Wili developed a collection that included jumpsuits, tailored pants, skirts with angular cuts, and blouses, all crafted from elegant fabrics. The intention behind this collection is to provide female musicians with clothing that not only flattens their form but also allows them to express their unique identities on stage. Wili emphasises the importance of maintaining unity among performers while respecting individual characteristics, a notion that resonates with the growing desire for authenticity in classical music.

Beyond individual artists and designers, there is a broader cultural shift within orchestras and music institutions. Many organisations are starting to recognise the importance of inclusive practices, not only in hiring but also in how they present their artists. This includes adapting dress codes to allow for more personal expression, thereby fostering an environment in which all musicians feel comfortable showcasing their identities.

One example of this shift can be seen in orchestras that have begun to allow musicians to wear attire that reflects their personal style—whether that is a colourful blouse, tailored trousers, or even traditional cultural attire. By embracing a more flexible dress code, these organisations create a space where diversity is celebrated, and musicians are encouraged to be their authentic selves.

The impact of inclusive fashion on classical music extends beyond this stage. It sends a powerful message to audiences and aspiring musicians, particularly those who may have felt alienated by the genre’s traditional norms. By showcasing various styles and identities, these artists challenge the notion that classical music is an exclusive domain, encouraging a new generation of musicians to pursue their passion without fear of being confined by outdated conventions.

Moreover, the influence of social media cannot be underestimated. Platforms such as Instagram and TikTok allow musicians to share not only their performances but also their personal styles and the stories behind their outfits. This visibility fosters a sense of community among women and non-binary and transgender musicians, encouraging them to express their identities in ways that feel authentic to them. The digital age has democratised the conversation between fashion and identity, allowing for a more diverse representation of artists in the classical music landscape.

In the future, it is clear that the conversation surrounding dress codes in classical music will continue to evolve. The push for inclusivity and self-expression is not merely a trend; it is a necessary step towards creating a more equitable and diverse music community. By embracing a broad range of identities and styles, classical music can shed its rigid past and become a reflective space for all musicians.

Yuja Wang (photo: The Telegraph)

In conclusion, the movement towards inclusive fashion in classical music is a celebration of individuality and diversity. Women and non-binary and transgender musicians are leading the charge, challenging outdated norms, and reimagining what it means to perform in this genre. As the classical music community continues to embrace change, it paves the way for a more vibrant and inclusive future—one where every musician can take the stage as their authentic self, dressed in a way that resonates with their identities. The journey towards a more inclusive classical music scene is just beginning, and it is up to all of us to support and uplift the voices that continue to break boundaries and redefine the art form.

Author: Stacy Jarvis

PhD student studying Musicology a the UoB.